Whisky & Shakespeare
December 8, 2010
Upon leaving Culloden Moor, we began our journey south, pausing at the tourist town of Pitlochry, famous its whisky and its hillwalking. A short drive from town lay the Bell’s Blair Atholl Distillery, where we stopped to take a tour of the buildings and sample a dram of some of their best whisky. I enjoyed learning about the process of making whisky more than I had anticipated, and I discovered that quality whisky does truly water your eyes, burn your throat and set a fire in your gut.
We journeyed a short distance further south to Dunkeld and checked into our hotel before setting out to explore the village. Our first destination was across the bridge over the River Tay to the town of Birnam. We followed the walking path along the fast-flowing river to the Birnam Oak, the last remaining tree still standing for the Birnam Wood mentioned in Shakespeare’s Macbeth. The oak, and a tree dubbed the "Young Pretender" standing next to it, were enormous, easily the largest trees I have ever seen with my own eyes. The Birnam Oak's limbs are so old and encumbered that locals have placed crutches below the largest limb to hold it up.
Returning back to Dunkeld, we went in search of the ruins of the 14th century cathedral, passing by the Atholl Fountain. The ancient and charming village of Dunkeld was destroyed during the Battle of Dunkeld in 1689, and the little houses lining Cathedral Street were among the first to be rebuilt. At the end of this little avenue stands the cathedral, some of which has been rebuilt. Its situation is idyllic among shady lawns stretching alongside the River Tay. The choir is used as the parish church and its north wall contains a Leper’s Squint: a hole through which lepers could see the altar during mass. It was while on holiday in the Dunkeld countryside that Beatrix Potter found the location for her Peter Rabbit stories.
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