We continued east along Loch Ness and then the River Ness to our destination for the night - Inverness. Inverness is the only city in the north of Scotland, and its charm is its normalcy. Situated around the base of its pink stone castle—which is now a courthouse, not a tourist attraction—Inverness is filled with interesting shops and an eclectic assortment of restaurants. The bustling pedestrian downtown and riverside paths, make it ideal for romantic strolls and serious shoppers.  Inverness Cathedral, with its fine stained-glass windows, stands on the opposite bank of the river from the castle, and the Inverness Museum and Art Gallery hold court nearby. There are also many traditional Scottish craft shops to explore, including kiltmakers and woolen weavers. Our bed and breakfast for the night was located just a block away from the castle, and only steps away from our chosen restaurant for the night – a Spanish tapas bistro, which served us delicious food. 

 

We set out early the next morning to run errands before heading east to Culloden Moor, the location of the disastrous last battle of Bonnie Prince Charlie’s campaign for the British crown. Already familiar with the historical significance and repercussions of this battle, I was greatly moved by the desolate, solemn battlefield and the large stone markers placed over the mass graves of Scotsmen. Locals still bring white roses and speak of “the ‘45” (as Bonnie Prince Charlie’s entire campaign is called) as if it just happened. “It was here, on April 16 1746, that the Duke of Cumberland’s army crushed the Jacobite rising led by Prince Charles. The battlefield is laid out with plaques showing the disposition of the opposing forces, and in the visitor center you can follow the story of this last major battle on British soil. Displays illustrate the confusing political climate of the times, when there were Scots – and even different Highland clans – fighting on both sides. The bitter aftermath of the battle, when government troops were sent on a murderous rampage through the glens, is also described.” Many an American has ancestors who fought at Culloden, for a great deal of those that survived, and the families of those who did not, were forced to flee for the colonies, or sent there in punishment.