Salisbury (and I’m not talking about the steak, though the hamburgers in the UK do taste a bit like it) is a village in Wiltshire probably best known for its proximity to the mega-tourist attraction Stonehenge. However, this city is truly a delightful place to visit on its own merits. My husband and I greatly enjoyed strolling the streets of the compact city center, snapping pictures of the interesting buildings and attractions. One of Britain’s best cathedral cities, its streets are laid out in a chessboard pattern, with separate areas relegated for different trades denoted by street names, such as Butcher Row and Fish Row.


Salisbury (www.visitsalisbury.com) was founded in 1220, when the old hilltop settlement of Old Sarum (2 miles to the north) was abandoned, being too arid and windswept. The habitants of Old Sarum took up their belongings, and moved many of their buildings, stone by stone, timber by timber, to the chosen sight among the lush water weadows where the rivers Avon, Nadder, and Bourne met. Construction on a new cathedral began, being built over the remarkably short space of 38 years, mostly in the early 13^th century. Its magnificent landmark spire was an inspired afterthought added in 1280-1310. 

Our visit to Salisbury started at our hotel – the Red Lion – an almost 800-year old coaching inn originally built to house the draughtsman working on the cathedral. Our room had, of course, been modernized, but it still retained some distinctive “old” details.   The walls and ceilings showcased exposed wooden timbers, many from the original building, our bed displayed a lovingly carved headboard, and a lovely tapestry hung on the wall above the mattress. 






 

Upon leaving the hotel, we strolled through the Market Place past the Guildhall, an unusual cream stone building from 1788-95 used for civic functions, and the Poultry Cross, a covered poultry market built in the 15^th century. The 13^th century Church of St Thomas lies on the busy High Street next to the shop-lined River Walk. A carved timber roof dating from 1450 covers the church, which contains a late 15^th century Doom painting, showing Christ seated in judgment and demons seizing the damned. 







 

We strolled along the river past the old mill, now a restaurant, and out through the Queen Elizabeth II Gardens to the water meadows. It was here that John Constable painted his now famous renderings of the Salisbury Cathedral. A public trail now winds by this spot, where sheep still graze in the well-known field. 


 

Retracing our steps back to High Street, we walked under the High Street Gate into the Cathedral Close. Here on the left stands the Matrons’ College, a home built in 1682 for clergy’s widows. To the right stands Mompesson House, a handsomely furnished home built by a wealthy Wiltshire family in 1701. It gives us some indication of what life was like for the inhabitants in the Close in the 18^th century. On past this, along the west side of the cathedral square resides the Rifles Museum - housed in the 13^th century Wardrobe; Arundells – once home to the former Prime Minister, Sir Edward Heath; the Medieval Hall and Old Deanery; and the Salisbury and South Wiltshire Museum, housed in the medieval King’s House. The 13^th century Bishop’s Palace, now a school, lies behind the cathedral. It is famous for its choristers. Malmsebury House lies to the east of the cathedral near St Ann’s Gate. Its early Georgian façade (1719) is fronted by beautiful wrought-iron gates. 

















 

 

The Salisbury Cathedral itself lies on a large grassy area surrounded by a low stone wall. Its grounds are open to the public, and people are free to picnic, throw a Frisbee, or simply lounge on a blanket in the lush grass and contemplate the magnificent building soaring above them. The cathedral is a fine example of Early English Gothic, and its 404 ft tower – the tallest in England, and library - which contains an original copy of the Magna Carta, can be explored on a guided tour. Shanon and I were amazed by the size and grandeur of the cathedral, and intrigued by the intricate statues that decorated it, seeming to cover every square inch. Pictures simply cannot do such architectural works of art justice. It was no wonder that people were awed by the beautiful, soaring spaces of the cathedral, and drawn to worship.

























 

To close out or enjoyable evening in Salisbury, we returned to the Market Place area and settled down at a table outside the Market Inn pub for dinner. Surrounded by medieval timber-framed buildings, wrought-iron street lamps, and cobbled streets, we savored a delicious dinner in a place that was pleasantly unfamiliar, while eavesdropping on the spirited British-accented conversations around us. The atmosphere was even heightened by the music of the cathedral bells ringing through the crisp air, lulling the village with their evening song. As I relaxed back in my chair and closed my eyes, I felt for the first time since our arrival that I was truly no longer in Kansas. And I loved it.